Overview of Sub-assemblies

Below is an overview of the full build, divided into three main regions: Base Bottom, Base Top, and Pod. These components are assembled separately and later joined.

The Base Top and Base Bottom are screwed together to form the base. Their primary function is to enclose all electronics and separate them from the high-humidity environment inside the vase. While the top and bottom base are mostly assembled separately, you must work on both in parallel during final assembly (once electronic wiring is installed and soldered), as wires connect parts between them.

The Pod is loosely placed on the base. Its sole purpose is to contain the mycelium cake/substrate. It is a hollow container with a lid at the bottom, featuring holes for mushrooms to sprout through and for moisture to seep in. The large vertical opening allows the pod to slide over the mist-maker tower, enabling mist to spread over the mushrooms while air moves upward.

Remark: No electronic wiring is visible in the 3D model. You will need to follow the wiring diagram for guidance.

Part 1: Prepare Base Bottom

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Step 1: Attach the Base Bottom Main print part to the Base Bottom Feet print part using hot glue to create a single solid object.

As noted earlier, these parts are printed in either white or black, depending on whether you want to prevent LED light from bleeding through the prints. If you printed in white and are OK with led light shining through your print walls, you can skip to Step 3 and avoid the painting/grinding process. However you might still want to perform Step 2 in case you prefer a smooth finish or want to seal the micro-pores in the prints to reduce contamination risks.

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Step 2: Smooth and color the print parts by:

1. Filling any holes, rough print lines and dimples with wood putty.
2. Sanding the surfaces with sandpaper (grit 80–120 - 300 consecutive).
3. Spray-painting the parts with white paint.
4. Repeat if scratch lines or print roughness are still visible

Repeat this process as necessary. Work only on the visible outer surfaces. For a detailed process, refer to this YouTube video.

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Step 3: Attach/glue the three TPU-printed rubber feet parts to the base, as shown in the image below.

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Step 4: Melt the M3 brass insert nuts into the eight holes, as shown below.
Ensure the nuts are melted deeply enough to sit flush with the surface. This is important because the fans will be mounted here, and any gaps could cause air leakage. Additionally, prevent molten plastic from entering the nuts, as this may obstruct screw installation.

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Step 5: Install the three buttons.

1. Prepare the Buttons:
   • Solder all necessary wires onto each button in advance.
   • Cover the soldered areas with heat shrink tubing for insulation and durability.
   • Note that the wires can be trimmed shorter later if needed.
2. Insert the Buttons:
   • Remove the three custom nuts from the buttons before inserting them into the base holes.
   • Once the buttons are positioned in the holes, screw the nuts onto the back of the buttons to secure them in place.
   • Ensure the buttons are clamped tightly in place.
3. Helpful Tip:
   • The button contacts may be hard to reach after mounting. Use tweezers if necessary to turn the nuts and secure them properly.
   • Refer to the image below for the placement and orientation of the buttons (blue-colored part).

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Step 6: Install the USB-C Port

1. Position the Port:

   • Align the USB-C port with its designated slot in the base.

2. Snap It In Place:

   • Push the USB-C port firmly into the slot until it snaps securely into place.

3. Adjust for Tolerances:

   • Depending on the tolerances of your 3D printer, this step may require additional force. Be careful not to damage the port while applying pressure.

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Step 7: Mount the Fans

1. Verify Fan Orientation:
   • Fans have a specific airflow direction. Check the sticker on the fan to determine the airflow:
     • The side with the sticker pushes air out.
     • The fan near the three buttons must have the sticker facing downward. This fan will suck air out of the machine and blow it out through the bottom.
     • The other fan should have the sticker facing upward to pull air into the machine.
2. Prepare the Air Guides:
   • Stack the air guides on top of the fans as shown in the images below.
3. Secure the Fans and Guides:
   • Attach the air guides and fans to the base using countersunk screws:
     • M3x15 screws for the lower air guide.
     • M3x25 screws for the higher air guide.

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Completion:
If you followed all the steps, your base should now resemble the image below.

Note: The electronic wires are not visible in these 3D renderings. Wiring and soldering will be done later when assembling the top half of the base.

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Part 2: Prepare Base Top

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Step 8: Prepare the Top Half of the Base

1. Begin with the Base Top print part (shown as the blue-colored part in the image above).
2. As mentioned earlier, this part can be printed in either white or black:
   • If printed in white and you’re satisfied with its appearance, skip to Step 10.
   • If you want a smoother finish or to seal micropores to reduce risks of bacteria or mold growth, proceed to Step 9.

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Step 9: Smooth and Color the Print Part

1. Fill any holes and dimples with wood putty.
2. Sand the surfaces using sandpaper (grit 80–300).
3. Spray-paint the parts with white paint. Repeat the process as needed until you achieve a smooth and even finish.
4. For a detailed guide, refer to this YouTube video.

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Step 10: Insert the Nuts

1. Melt the insert nuts into the eight pillars (marked in red in the image below).
2. Ensure the nuts are melted straight and centered.
3. Verify that the nuts sit flush with the surface and do not stick out.
4. Take care to prevent molten plastic from entering the inside of the nuts, as this will obstruct the screws.

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Step 11: Prepare the LED Strips

1. Locate the groove on the top side of the part where the LED strips will be installed.

2. Cut the LED Strip to Length:

   • Measure and cut the LED strip to a length of approximately 520mm.
   • To ensure accuracy, test fit the strip by placing it in the groove and pulling it tight against the inner surface.
   • Ensure the back side of the LED strip (non-illuminated side) is pointing inward.

3. Mark the Cutting Point:

   • Mark the point where the LED strip completes a full circle and begins to overlap.

4. Important Considerations Before Cutting:

   • Leave a gap of 5–10mm between the ends of the LED strip. This gap allows room for wire connections to pass through a hole on the front and bring the cables inward.
   • LED strips can only be cut at specific intervals marked by three copper dots. Cut through the center of these dots to ensure functionality.

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Step 12: Solder the Connection Wires

1. After cutting the LED strip to the correct length, solder the three connection wires (5V, ground, and signal) to the strip.
   • Use wires approximately (+/- 100mm) long.
   • Ensure proper polarity by soldering the wires to the start side of the LED strip, opposite the direction of the arrows printed on the strip.
2. Verify Direction: Electricity flows only in one direction through the LED strip, following the arrows. Ensure the wires are connected correctly to avoid functionality issues.

   Remark: The copper pads on the led strips are tiny. It helps to use some small cut strips as practice. Be sure to gently tug on the soldered wires to ensure a proper connection is made. Sometimes it looks like it is soldered ok, but in fact, it is barely holding on. You wouldn't want the led strip to lose connection after you poored silicone over them and you cannot reach them

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Step 13: Install the LED Strip in the Groove

1. Guide the connector wires through the small hole near the front of the part.
2. Place the LED strip inside the groove, ensuring the back (non-illuminated) side is flush with the center of the groove.
3. Secure the LED Strip:
   • Apply small dots of hot glue along the inner side of the groove.
   • Press the LED strip firmly into place as you work your way around the groove.
   • Proceed step by step, ensuring the strip adheres securely and maintains proper alignment.

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Step 14: Install the LED Strip in the Bottom Groove

1. Repeat Steps 11–13:
   • Follow the same process as described in Steps 11, 12, and 13, but this time for the groove located at the bottom of the part.
2. Adjust LED Orientation:
   • Ensure the LED strip is oriented correctly.
   • For the bottom groove, position the LED strip so the LEDs face inward while the back side of the strip adheres to the outer surface of the groove.
3. Guide the Wires:
   • Pass the connector wires through the same hole as used for the top groove to maintain a tidy layout.
4. Secure the Strip:
   • Use hot glue to attach the LED strip step by step, pressing it firmly into the groove as you go. Ensure the strip is evenly aligned and securely fixed.

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5. Double check:
   • Make sure that your Led wires are glued like this:

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Step 15 Test the Addressable LED Strips Before Silicone

1. Connect to Controller:

   • Connect the addressable RGB LED strips to your breadboard the signal wire should be connected to the D6 port of the microcontroller with a pull up resistor.
   • Attach the power and ground wires to their respective terminals.

2. Upload and Run a Test Program:

   • Upload a test program to your microcontroller test program

3. Observe the LEDs:

   • Verify that each LED responds correctly to the test program.
   • Check for any unlit LEDs, inconsistent colors, or skipping effects that might indicate faulty connections or components.

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Step 16: Prepare and Apply the Silicone Mix

1. Prepare the Silicone Mix:
   • Follow the ratio instructions provided on the silicone flask to mix the silicone properly.
2. Fill the Groove:
   • Pour the silicone mix into the groove, filling it up to the level indicated in the diagram (blue area represents the silicone).
   • Ensure an even fill for proper sealing.
3. Seal the Wire Hole:
   • Before pouring the silicone, seal the hole that guides the LED connector wires inward using a dab of hot glue.
   • This prevents the silicone from leaking during the curing process.
4. Curing Time:
   • Respect the curing time specified for the silicone. Do not proceed to the next step until the silicone has fully set.
5. Important Notes:
   • The silicone should form a smooth, milky-transparent seal, as shown in the cross-section image below.
   • The LED strip on the bottom side does not require silicone coverage. A separate silicone ring, to be poured later into a 3D-printed mold, will be used for this purpose.

In the cross-section below, can see how much silicone you have to pour. The silicone is the milky transparent body. Respect the curing time of the silicone before continuing to the next step

The led strip from the bottom side does not have to be covered in silicone. Later, here we’ll place a separate silicone ring that we need to pour in a 3d printed mould. 

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Step 17: Install and Solder the Star-Shaped Lights

1. Optional Step:

   • The LED strips for the star-shaped lights are purely aesthetic and can be skipped if you prefer a simpler build.

2. Prepare the LED Strips:

   • Cut the LED strips (marked as orange rectangles in the image below) to fit the inside surface of the top base print part.

3. Attach the LED Strips:

   • Glue the LED strips with their flush side against the print. Ensure a secure fit to maintain the aesthetic alignment.

4. Solder the Connections:

   • Connect and solder the LED strips in series, following the blue dashed lines shown in the diagram. The arrows indicate the locations where the wires leave the star shaped cavity. Make sure to respect the direction of current flow (marked by the arrows on the led strips, see black arrows in the image below)

5. Wire Management:

   • Route the connecting wires as close to the LED strips as possible, keeping them away from the front of the star-shaped grooves. This prevents the wires from casting shadows inside the grooves.
   • Some wires will need to be guided outside the star-light container area, as shown below, to ensure proper placement and avoid obstruction.

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Step 18: Test the Addressable LED Strips Before Silicone

1. Connect to Controller:

   • Connect the addressable RGB LED strips to your breadboard the signal wire should be connected to the D6 port of the microcontroller with a pull up resistor.
   • You can connect two data wires to the same resistor.
   • Attach the power and ground wires to their respective terminals.

2. Upload and Run a Test Program:

   • Upload a test program to your microcontroller test program

3. Observe the LEDs:

   • Verify that each LED responds correctly to the test program.
   • Check for any unlit LEDs, inconsistent colors, or skipping effects that might indicate faulty connections or components.

4. Troubleshoot Issues:

   • For any problem areas:
     • Recheck the solder joints on the affected LEDs or connections.
     • Confirm the data flow direction matches the arrows on the LED strip.
     • Ensure the microcontroller is providing adequate power and data signal.

5. Confirm Full Functionality:

   • Once the LEDs display the test program as expected, ensure all strips are functioning uniformly and aligned as desired in the star-shaped grooves.

This step ensures the LED strips are fully operational before pouring the silicone, preventing errors that could be difficult or impossible to correct later.

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Step 19: Fill the Star-LED Cavity with Silicone

1. Mandatory Step:

   • This step is essential to create a proper seal between the top and bottom halves of Shroomy's body. Do not skip it.

2. Prepare the Star-LED Cavity:

   • Fill the star-LED cavity with silicone until it almost reaches the edge (as indicated by the orange arrow in the diagram below).
   • Ensure all the holes used to route the wires are completely filled with silicone to prevent any gaps.

3. Insert Dummy Plugs:

   • Use the 3D-printed dummy plugs labeled Dummy Hole 1 and Dummy Hole 2 to fill the four holes in the star-shaped cutout.
   • These dummy plugs (marked in red in the diagram) must be clicked securely into place before applying silicone.

4. Tape the Star-Shaped Groove:

   • Apply tape (e.g. easy to remove paper tape or duck tape) to the outside surface of the star-shaped groove to ensure the star shaped cutout is taped off and the silicone is contained. Make sure to apply the tape on the outside, in this way you can remove it and the silicone is hardened flush with the base top part.
   • Double-check that the tape is firmly applied to prevent leaks or uneven edges during curing.

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Step 20:  Mount the insert nuts in the printed part ‘water tank holder’ as seen below.

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Step 21: Create a custom silicone seal as seen below. All you have to do is print the mould called ’silicone seal mould’ and fill it up with silicone and wait until its cured.

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Step 22: Now we’ll mount part ‘watertank holder’ against the top base from the inside with M3x10 countersunk screws. Make sure that the silicone part you created in step 19 is sandwiched in between. 

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Part 3: Mistmaker

Step 23: Assemble the Mistmaker Stack

1. Insert the Cotton Bar:

   • Slide the cotton bar into the central shaft of the printed humidifier clamp.
   • Allow the cotton bar to stick out by a few millimeters. This ensures proper contact with the mistmaker during operation.

2. Place the Mistmaker:

   • Insert the mistmaker into the clamp.
   • Ensure that the correct side of the metal on the mistmaker is touching the cotton for optimal performance.

3. Position the Assembly:

   • Place the assembled clamp and mistmaker into the printed water container.
   • Note: The assembly is designed to rest loosely inside the container. This allows you to lift it out easily when filling the container with water.

Note: - Handle with care: the piezoelectric/ceramic circle (white part inside the silicone wrap of the humidifier) will break when you apply too much pressure - Clogging: After a while the micropores of the humidifier collect micro particles or limescale and can clog. If your tap water contains high calcium amounts, better to use demineralized water (you can buy this in any grocery store). in this way, you can expand the lifetime of this unit drastically, needing to repair/replace it less often. If it is clogged, try to submerge it in a vinegar solution before buying a new one. (this will dissolve limescale) - Cotton contact lost: Because the humidifier vibrates rapidly, it is possible that after a couple mushroom cycles, the humidifier has pushed away the cotton bar and lost proper contact. Consequence; poor misting. Simply lift the cotton bar up a little bit and press the humidifier gently against the cotton bar again.

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Step 24: Extend and Route the Humidifier Wires

1. Extend the Wires:

   • Solder additional wire to the existing humidifier wires to make them longer.
   • Ensure the connections are secure and properly insulated to prevent short circuits.

2. Guide the Wires:

   • Pass the wires through the gap indicated by the arrow in the diagram below.
   • Note: The wires cannot be routed through this gap if the plate is screwed on tightly.

3. Unclamp the Humidifier:

   • Temporarily detach the humidifier from the mistmaker stack and let it hang loose. This provides more flexibility while soldering the electronics.

4. Prepare for Inner Electronics Assembly:

   • Once the wires are extended and routed, you can proceed with soldering the inner electronics of the Shroomy.

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Part 4: Solder All the Electronics

Step 25: Position the Base Halves for Electronics Assembly

1. Prepare the Assembly Area:

   • Place the bottom half and top half of the base in front of you, as shown in the image below.

2. Install the Silicone Ring:

   • Use the silicone ring (blue in the image) created by pouring silicone into the 3D-printed silicone diffuser mold.
   • Position the ring in place now, as it will be impossible to mount it later once the electronics are assembled.

3. Secure the Silicone Ring:

   • Ensure the ring is properly seated and aligned before proceeding with the electronics work.

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Step 26:. Now connect and solder all the electronics as shown in diagram below.

Make sure to flash the software on the Arduino nano and test all the components before closing the two halves together. You can always open it afterwards and change things and reclose it, but you'll notice that opening and closing takes some getting used to, with all the wires obstructing the screw holes. So the less you have to reopen the shells, the better.

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Step 27: Assemble and Close the Two Halves

1. Position the Halves:

   • Align the top and bottom halves of the assembly as if closing a book.

2. Organize the Wires:

   • During closing, carefully route all wires to ensure none are pinched or obstructed during assembly.
   • Double-check wire placement before proceeding to avoid damage or functionality issues.

3. Secure the Halves:

   • Insert eight M3x30 screws from the bottom of the assembly.
   • Tighten the screws evenly to securely fasten both sides together.

The base is now compleded and closed up. 

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Part 5: Pod glueing

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Step 28: Assemble the Pod for the Mycelium Substrate

1. Print the Components:

   • Print the Pod and all corresponding plates (Plate 1, Plate 2, etc.).

2. Optional Finishing Steps:

   • If you plan to use Shroomy frequently, consider performing the grinding and painting steps:
     • Grinding: Smooth the surfaces to close any micropores.
     • Painting: Apply a protective finish to reduce the risk of bacterial or fungal contamination.
   • While optional, these steps improve hygiene and longevity.

3. Assemble the Plates:

   • Attach the plates to the pod using hot glue or an adhesive of your choice.
   • Ensure the plates are aligned correctly using the guiding geometrical features for self-alignment.

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Step 29: Attach the Pod Lid

1. Click the Lid in Place:

   • Secure the pod lid by clicking it into position on the pod.

2. Optional Finishing Steps:

   • Similar to the pod itself, you can choose to sand and paint the lid to improve its appearance and seal the surface against unwanted contaminants.

3. Printer Tolerance Considerations:

   • The lid is designed to fit based on the tolerances of a Bambulab X1C printer.
   • If your printer has different tolerances and the lid does not fit properly, you may need to adjust the mating surfaces by offsetting them by 0.1mm or more.
   • This adjustment may require a few trial-and-error iterations to achieve the correct fit.

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Note: Test the fit of the lid carefully before final assembly. Use small tolerance adjustments to avoid overcompensating and creating a loose fit.

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Part 6: Complete Stack

Step 30: Assemble the Complete Stack

1. Fill the Water Tank:

   • Add water to the water tank until it reaches the appropriate level. Ensure there are no leaks before proceeding.

2. Place the Mistmaker Tower:

   • Position the mistmaker tower on top of the base, aligning it securely with the designated slots or grooves.

3. Attach the Humidifier:

   • Click the humidifier back onto its clamp, ensuring it is securely fixed and properly aligned for operation.

4. Final Check:

   • Verify that all components are correctly assembled and aligned.
   • Ensure the humidifier is making proper contact with the mistmaker for effective mist production.

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Step 31: Slide the pod over the mistmaker:

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Part 7: Vase

Step 32: Decide Which Vase Type to Use

1. Choose Your Vase:

   • Vase 1:
     A bell jar vase. Available on US amazon. No extra prints needed

   • Vase 2:
     A full glass (D: 18cm H:25cm), only available for order in certain countries. No extra prints needed

   • Vase 3:
     Glass vase (D: 7", H:8") available on USA Amazon but requires a printed extension piece to increase height and fit over the pod. Go to Step 31

   • Vase 4:
     Fully custom-made from 3D prints and a 1mm transparent acrylic sheet, cut with scissors. Go to Step 32

2. Check the Buy List:

   • Refer to the buy list to see which vase option is viable for you.

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Step 33: If you purchased the middle vase, you will have to print the extension piece called "Vase Click Ring." You need to click your vase onto this ring by pressing it into the groove.

Note: We have not yet ordered this glass vase, so please check the wall thickness and outside diameter on the open side. Verify if the printed part will fit and adapt it if needed. If adjustments are required, please reach out to us so we can adapt the 3D file. We are happy to help!

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Step 34:

1. Print the following parts:

   • "Vase Custom Skeleton 1"
   • "Vase Custom Skeleton 2"

2. Prepare the acrylic sheet:

   • Cut the 1mm acrylic sheet into a rectangle measuring 556mm x 240mm.

3. Assemble the vase:

   • Curl and slide the acrylic piece into the bottom print.
   • Slide the top print over it.
   • Apply glue all around in the grooves to make the assembly airtight.

Note: Both print parts should click neatly using the pin-hole connection. If the fit is too tight, you may need to adapt the design to allow for more clearance based on your printer's tolerances.

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Step 35: Place the vase on top. Congrats! Now you are ready to grow the shrooms.